Locking a bike and locking a bike securely are, unfortunately, not always the same thing. A locked bike is only as good as its weakest point, for at that point will a thief depart with his ill-gotten gains. Three parts must be considered when locking a bike securely: the bike, the lock, and that to which the bike is locked.

Location

When securing a steed, however temporarily, its hitching post needs to be strong and visible. A thief will eventually need to break the lock securing the bike, but if he can do it in his garage rather than the place where the bike was initially locked, he will prefer that. If the bike is locked to something that is weak, even the strongest lock on the market will not help. Secure a bike to a sapling and the sapling will be snapped and the bike gone. A wood post can be broken in two and a chain-link fence can be snipped. Make sure that the bike’s temporary home is as strong as the lock.

Locking a bike to any sort of shrub; not good for the shrub's health, nor the bike's.

 

 

 

 

Also make sure that the temporary home is in a well-trafficked area. All locks can be broken, but strong locks take more time and more insidious methods (such as power tools). To have time, and to use power tools, a thief will want privacy. Locking a bike where it will not be private will enable other people’s eyes to act as further protection for the bike.

A bike left dreadfully alone.

 

 

A safe bike is a bike with friends and neighbors

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bike

The second consideration in securing a bike is that a bike is made of multiple, removable pieces. Quick-release skewers on wheels make getting the wheel off very easy, for both the owner and a thief. Many seatposts also have quick-releases on them. Consequently, one can think they are locking their bike when in fact they only are locking the front wheel or the frame. It is therefore best to secure as many parts of the bike as possible with one or more locks. If only a part of a bike can be stolen and sold, a thief may still take it.

The front wheel is secure, unfortunately, the rest of the bike is not.

 

A better option; looping through the frame and front wheel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wheels are more than twice as valuable as a pair than alone, hence if you can secure one wheel you have done something – but not much – to protect the other wheel. If your wheels are not cheap, secure both. On bikes with multiple gears the rear wheel is slightly more difficult to remove than the front, making the front wheel the better choice to secure (because it is the better choice to steal).  A cable or chain lock, depending on length, can possibly secure both wheels and the frame, but is not as strong as a u-lock. With a u-lock it is usually possible to secure both the frame and one of the wheels easily, or you may remove the front wheel and lock it with the back wheel to the bike rack, thereby securing both wheels and your frame. Also, remember to remove any accessories that may be attached to the bike. Lights are made easy to get on and off, again, for both you and a thief.

The cheapest way to keep your bike from being stolen is to simply ride a very inexpensive, worthless bicycle. But if you do not like that, make sure to secure all of the valuable components of your bike.

Lock

Lastly, one must consider the lock. They come in all styles, with varying shapes and characteristics, which means that the right lock exists for everyone. Wading through the choices one must keep in mind how much “lock” one wants. Prices range from under $10 to over $100. Generally, the higher the price, the stronger (and heavier) the lock. Different styles offer different benefits and even within the same style of lock, different characteristics can make a lock more (or less) secure.

A decent locking job with a secured frame and front wheel.

 

 

 

 

 

U-locks are common, and for good reason. They can easily be secured to metal posts while looping through both the frame and one or both of the wheels on the bike. Made out of hardened steel, they are more difficult to break. Breaking a u-lock without power tools is usually done with a car jack or a crow bar and a lot of leverage. U-locks come with a variety of “u” sizes. The smaller the “u” the less space available to insert a crow bar or a car jack, and the more secure the lock, but the fewer bike pieces you can fit inside the lock. u-locks may lock into their bases on either one or both ends of the u. The locks that secure on both ends generally cost more but are more secure than those that only lock on one end. Older Kryptonite-brand u-locks may be picked with a Bic-brand pen, but new Kryptonite-brand u-locks are not susceptible in this way.

An even better lock arrangement; the u-lock secures the front wheel and frame and the cable secures the rear wheel.

 

 

 

 

Cable locks typically have an integrated lock with a steel cable that is encased by some sort of sheath. These locks can vary in strength depending on what materials the manufacturer uses. Only the thickest (and therefore heaviest) cables even come close to the strength of a thick u-lock. Again, the greater the price, generally, the greater the strength. One of the advantages of these locks is that the cable can be threaded through all of the critical parts of the bike. They also can utilize objects in locking a bike that are too large for a U-lock (such as a lamp post). Cables are often sold without integrated locks, in which case they have to be paired with another lock. Using a cable with a u-lock can enable one to secure the bike and its major parts with the u and utilize the cable to secure the other components.

The rear wheel and frame are secured by the cable, unfortunately this cable is not so secure in itself. Note the vulnerable headlight.

 

 

 

Chain style locks share a lot of characteristics with cable locks. Some chains are extremely thick and burly and made to be secure in some of the least safe places, while other chains (of the hardware store variety) ought to give little comfort. If using chains, stick with ones that are sold as a product for locking up bikes (e.g. Kryptonite New York Chain or OnGuard Beast).

A bike not-so-secured with a cable and padlock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A multitude of other styles of locks exist. Cuff style locks can be good in that they can be shrunk down to fit snugly around the bike and that to which it is locked. They are only as strong as their weakest point, though, so make sure the connector between the two cuffs is up to snuff. Speaking of weakest point, avoid pairing a chain or cable with a padlock. They are great for high school gym lockers but will do little for a bike.

For more information, visit your local bike shop to look at different types of locks and evaluate which are best for your bike and your neighborhood. (And if you are a BTA member, remenber that you get a 10% discount at these shops.)